Bangladesh - Visit reports

January 2025

With thanks to Vic Lines for this report.

What with the imminent demise of India as an Alco bashing destination, the time had come to revisit some of its neighbours, starting with Bangladesh. New routes have opened and old moribund ones re-activated.

The metre gauge towards Chittagong is in the process of being dual gauged. Meanwhile, clips on YouTube showed plenty of recent Alco action on both gauges and zones, but mainly on lower priority trains. The railway still appeared unspoilt with semaphore signals and old infrastructure still in place.

I applied for a visa by post to the Assistant High Commission in Manchester. I sent this on the 2nd Jan and it took until the 22nd (the day before I was due to depart) to get the damn thing back! Don’t leave this till the last minute. There’s no e-visa either.

You can’t fly direct to Dhaka from the UK, so it was BA to Delhi for Air India forward with an 8 hr connection in the airport. A two hour plane ride later and at Dhaka immigration, it became clear there was a problem. My passport on their system was showing missing, lost, stolen or cancelled! I was hauled off upstairs while they investigated. After 90 mins I got led back down into arrivals and finally got stamped into the country. Just what I needed after a 24 hr journey, it was nearly 4pm by the time I got to my hotel. Apart from purchasing a ticket for next week from Biman Bandhar station and going out for a meal, not much got done.

Sunday 26th January 2025 Todays objective was to travel from Dhaka to Rajbari via the new Padma bridge. There’s now six trains each way a day over the new bridge, but only one regularly worth catching for the discerning Alco fan. Train 25/26 Khulna <> Dhaka is still worked by a vac braked set and therefore has to be Alco as the new BG EMDs are air only. I caught the first available train from Biman Bandhar to Dhaka Kamlapur: a lengthy train of old blue MG coaches including sleeping cars and a mail coach. As suspected, this was the Dhaka Mail from Chittagong running 90 late. Once at Dhaka, the drama then was trying to find the correct ticket office for train 26. The ticket windows on Kamlapur concourse are only for the Bangladesh Railways ticketed ICs. Lesser trains have a much smaller building resembling a public convenience outside the concourse. Each train has its own queue. A poster dated two days previously was pasted to the wall announcing trains 25/26 had been retimed! Main summary: 25 gets to Dhaka later and as a consequence departs later back to Khulna. My arrival into Rajbari would now miss any of the other trains and thoughts of using it to Khulna in a few days time had gone out of the window with its 23:00 arrival.

The new line utilises the Narayanganj branch to exit Dhaka southwards, before peeling off on its new alignment. Apparently built by the Chinese. The new line is much same as in India: stations without any character or devoid of much activity - yet. The Padma bridge is several kms long, very impressive and unlike its crumbling Jamuna counterpart, taken at line speed. The new route then connects with the old Faridpur branch.

Rajbari is a proper rustic time warp with all the trappings of the colonial era, although the semaphore arms have been removed from the signal posts and seemingly replaced by nothing! Points now have to be set by someone walking about with a key, rather than from the signal box.

I’d got the hotel in Dhaka to phone the hotel at Rajbari as it’s not on any booking sites. The chap didn’t speak much English, so Google translate came in handy. I got the “Maria” room (no she wasn’t part of the bargain!) which was spotless, had mozzie net, hot water & AC. 2000TK a night. I think they only have two named rooms, I suspect the other rooms might be of lesser quality. A pizza in a nearby restaurant rounded off the day.

2920 on 1 23P45 Chittagong - Dhaka Mail 6618 on 825 06h00 Khulna - Dhaka “Jahanabad Express” 6618 on 826 10h45 Dhaka - Benapole “Rupasi Bangal Express” 6522 on Joydebpur Commuter 3, 11h00 Dhaka - Joydebpur 2312 on Narayanganj service 6402 on 26 11h20 Dhaka - Khulna “Nakshikantha Express” 6619 on 756 06h40 Rajshahi - Dhaka “Madhumati Express” 6407 on 508 16h00 Goalando Ghat - Poradaha

Monday 27th January 2025 Todays objective was to ride the Bhatiapara Branch, served by one train a day. Having woken the hotel owner up to unlock the front door, I got to the station for 6am. Train 25 was just about to depart and seemed to have brought 6009 on the rear, which was detached. I saw this happen the next day too, so this must be how the locos are cycled into Rajbari. All the other trains from Ishardi / Khulna which used to feed the area with locos are now worked by GMs. Despite the notice at Kamlapur stating train 25 departed Rajbari at 06:50, it actually departed at 06:10! So much for the new timings.

I went for a return trip to Goalando Ghat, breakfast in Rajbari then did the Bhatiapara Branch. The set that does the morning Faridpur run works the Bhatiapara branch. Annoyingly, they swapped the winning 6407 for the dud 6009! I suspect this might be a booked move (loco DIT ex train 25). On my last visit, the trains in this area ran like clockwork. Unfortunately, now there are ICs heading towards Dhaka, considerable delays can be caused waiting for one to cross. We wanted over an hour at Kasiani Jn while a plethora of trains were given priority. Net result: a 2 hr late arrival at Rajbari.

6507 on 25 Khulna - Dhaka “Nakshikantha Express” 6407 on 101 06h00 Rajbari - Bhanga 6107 on 513 06h15 Rajbari - Goalando Ghat 6107 on 506 07h30 Goalando Ghat - Poradaha 6009 on 103 10h10 Rajbari - Bhatiapara Ghat 6009 on 104 13h40 Bhatiapara Ghat - Rajbari 6635 on 726 Dhaka - Khulna “Sunderban Express”

Tuesday 28th January 2025 I warned the hotel owner he’d be up early today: 06:30, so he wasn’t quite as bleary eyed as the day before. After taking a few pics of the marvellous misty sunrise and squeezing in breakfast, I went to the station. Erm, why are both rakes of locos and stock here? “Bondo” said a policeman, which is Bengali for strike. Not a Bengali word I wanted to learn! I’d heard an Alco horn while I was in the shower and a 6000 series was stabled in the platform road - blatantly detached off train 25, so a strike was a bit confusing.

A railway employee said everything was cancelled for the day in the entire country, train 25’s crew must have booked on the previous night. The employee suggested getting a bus to Khulna - my next destination. First I’d got to get a rickshaw to the bus stand, then take it from there. Tk20 got me to the bus office, then a chap - obviously in charge and on his mobile - started shouting “rickshaw rickshaw!” Confused, I got back in the one I’d just used and we set off down the road as fast as its electric motor would take us. I could see what was happening now. The Bus Office man had phoned to get the Khulna bus stopped! 5 hrs later, I was in Khulna. I’d booked into the Jatra Flagship Hotel (actually serviced apartments). These were brand new and spotlessly clean - highly recommended.

Some research on the phone for “train strike” made grim reading. It was shown as indefinite, passengers across the country were stranded without warning, including 600 at Mymensingh when the driver fled the train! (I assume he’d worked from Jamalpur or somewhere and his hours were up). Passengers held the station master hostage for a while in protest! Another fly in the ointment was the strike research had mentioned “Ijetma” happening soon, which is some enormous Muslim gathering outside Dhaka. Think of trains festooned with people on every inch of the roof…. I had a walk to Khulna station and made some enquiries. A chai stall owner said the strikes only lasted a day or so. A check on the phone later showed talks had broken down inconclusively between unions and management. A day sightseeing tomorrow then?

Wednesday 29th January 2025 I woke up around 9am and checked the phone. Strike called off at 02:46am and staff back to work! No “do not travel” advice here! A quick shower, breakfast and stroll saw me on the 11:00 to Chapai Nawabganj with winning Alco 6013. We should have passed the Benapole Commuter somewhere, but that was missing - presume cancelled.

All locos today were required, an excellent day really. Especially pleased to net the old Alco and ex IR 11494 (6547). Thanks to an economy paint job, the IR numbers are visible under the paint, either on the cab side or long hood.

6013 on 15 11h00 Khulna - Chapai Nawabganj “Mohananda Mail” 6517 on 16 06h00 Rohanpur - Khulna “Mohananda Mail” 6619 on 761 16h00 Khulna to Rajshahi “Sagardari Express” (6412 DIT on rear) 6547 on 729 08h30 Chilahati - Khulna “Rupsha Express”

Thursday 30th January 2025 Because of the religious festival, I decided to have an extra night in Khulna and move my plans back 24 hrs. Today was similar to yesterday, except the morning Benapole Commuter actually ran, but the Rupsha Express was absent from proceedings (Thursday is its day off for maintenance).

I’d been lulled into a false sense of security yesterday regarding punctuality. The strike day had the unintended effect of resetting the delays. I got back way later than I should have as the low priority “Mohananda Mail” from Rohanpur to Khulna was hours late. There’s no info for train running, so you’re just sat there wondering if and when trains are going to appear. Once finally back at Khulna, I hot footed it to the hotel and started arrangements for tomorrows very early taxi ride to Gobra.

6007 on 23 09h30 Khulna - Parbatipur “Rocket Mail” 6524 on 96 09h15 Benapole - Khulna “Benapole Commuter” 6107 on 15 11h00 Khulna - Chapai Nawabganj “Mohananda Mail” 6637 on 726 08h00 Dhaka Kamlapur to Khulna “Sunderban Express” 6603 on 795 13h00 Benapole - Dhaka “Benapole Express” 6609 on 827 15h25 Benapole - Dhaka Kamlapur “Rupsha Bangla Express” 6013 on 16 06h00 Rohanpur - Khulna “Mohananda Mail”

Friday 31st January 2025 Yesterday, the hotel relayed info from the taxi driver that the drive to Gobra was dangerous due to fog. The one hour shown on Google Maps would be inadequate for the journey and we needed to depart at 04:30 to ensure making the 06:30 train from Gobra. So it was no surprise that the fog failed to appear, just a light mist, meaning a 05:30 arrival at Gobra with an hour to kill! At least there were a couple of stalls selling chai and cake, even at this hour. The station is in the middle of nowhere down a lane, it took some finding in the taxi.

BED-30 6525 duly arrived and ran round. I discovered the train crew sleep one station up the line in lodgings. There’s literally nothing around, no hotels. I didn’t understand the handwritten symbols written on my ticket, so I sat in the front coach which filled up after a couple of stations. The ticket inspector came round and escorted me to a chair car down the back of the train and my actual booked seat. Much more comfortable. Note that this train actually has a restaurant car and 1st Class Compartments. If I’d known, I’d have gone 1st class.

We somehow managed to lose quite a bit of time, arriving in Rajshahi at 14:05. I managed to get a rickshaw to my “hotel” (another serviced apartment in an old house), dump the bag and get back to the station for the 15:00 departure! I’d eyed up a small out and back to Lolitnagar - the stop before Amnura Jn. You need to be careful doing moves involving Amnura, as there’s two stations - bypass and junction - which are quite a walk. There was just enough time for a relaxing chai and cake before heading back on the third winner of the day to Rajshahi. Evening meal was at the Helium Restaurant in Rajshahi - upmarket and spotless.

6525 on 783 07h40 Gobra - Rajshai “Tungipara Express” 6409 on 16 06h00 Rohanpur to Khulna “Mohananda Mail” 6504 on 77 15h00 Rajshahi - Rohanpur 6519 on 770 15h30 Chapai Nawabganj - Dhallarchar

Saturday 1st February 2025 Today was supposed to be a day of moves around Rohanpur / Chapai, with a morning out and back towards Abdulpur. The first bit towards Abdulpur just produced the same two locos I’d had already on this trip. Arrival back at Rajshahi dropped me onto winning 6514 heading back towards Abdulpur, which I naturally took. There should have been a Parbatupur - Rajshahi “Uttara Mail” heading the other way. To cut a long story short, we never crossed this and I ended up at Ishardi with no train back to Rajshahi for 6 hours!

I decided to cover the southbound Rupsha Express to Paksey, but this was two hours late! It can be Alco (like everything else) but arrived with an EMD. I still did it to just to break up the tedium. At Paksey, I tried to find out how late the Khulna - Chapai Mohanada Mail was. The station master spoke hardly any English and could only offer up “8 hrs” or “10 hrs!” This didn’t sound like a position of strength, so when a rickshaw offered to take me back to Ishardi for 200 Taka, I didn’t hesitate!

The Mohananda Mail appeared at 18:30 (about an hour late), then took 1 hr 10 mins just to get to Abdulpur! I got to Rajshahi at 21:15. Basically a long and tedious day thanks to a crap timetable and late running / missing trains.

6517 on 16 06h00 Rohanpur - Khulna “Mohananda Mail” 6519 on 57 07h00 Ishardi - Rohanpur “Rajshahi Commuter” 6514 on 6 08h30 Chapai Nawabganj - Ishardi 6629 on 732 05h00 Chilahati - Rajshahi “Baremdra Express” 6627 on 769 06h00 Dhaka Kamlapur to Rajshahi “Dumakatu Express” 6624 to Ishardi for 6544 forward: 716 14h30 Rajshahi - Khulna “Kabotaskha Express” 6619 on 729 08h30 Chilahati - Khulna “Rupsha Express” 6007 on 23 09h30 Khulna - Parbatipur “Rocket Mail” 6409 on 15 11h00 Khulna - Chapai Nawabganj “Mohananda Mail”

Sunday 2nd February 2025 Today I caught Bangladesh Railways premier BG train: the Banalata Express. It originates at Chapai Nawabganj and after the Rajshahi stop is next stop Dhaka Biman Bandar! I booked a seat in AC sitting, which is basically a four berth sleeper compartment (1AC in India), but in the daytime BR sells eight seats per compo. Cozy, but better than a chair car. It cost 1040 Taka.

Whilst traversing the old Jamuna Bridge, the chap sat next to me pointed out the new railway bridge alongside opening soon. He wasn’t wrong. It opened the week after I came back! Double track and dual gauge, it will unblock a major bottleneck on the BR Network.

We sailed through the Ijetma crowds thronging Tongi Jn non stop, one of the few trains to do so. Once at Kamlapur, the chap I’d been sat next to on the train escorted me to the station masters office to assist in my quest to ride the Surma Mail. It didn’t sound good. The SM didn’t know if it would run tonight and didn’t know about tomorrow either! Currently, it’s operating every other day and the resources had been used for the Ijetma crowds.

I took a rickshaw to Bailey Road, which had been recommended as an area to go with plenty of restaurants. Over lunch (Indian veg thali), I pondered the options. The Surma Mail was in the bin - especially with the crowd situation. I’d originally planned to do the Surma and then head to Mymensingh, so I resurrected that scheme but starting from Dhaka. There’s a train around 8am that drops Alcos, so a quick rummage through booking dot com got me a hotel near Biman Bandar station.

Back at Kamlapur, my arrival at the station coincided with the arrival of train 99 from Ishardi, running hours late and running round with winning 6522 for power. The train was only load 5 and pretty rammed. A row broke out between some students and the ticket inspector. Basically, having overthrown the government, they think ticket purchases are an optional item. It nearly ended with punches being thrown and the ticket inspector trying to throw the man out of the door. Passengers intervened to calm the situation down. Once at Biman Bandar, the hotel was a short walk away, and despite only booking it a couple of hours ago, was expecting me, supplied complementary chai to the room, clean and tidy. A good place to stay.

I had a wander back to the station later for phots, took a GM to Kamlapur to cover a few evening trains but they were either EMD or in the case of the Noakhali train, simply vaporised off the departure board! 2316 arrived with a secondary express from somewhere. The loco disappeared before I could quiz its driver of its origin. The shunt driver waiting to haul it out ecs was no use as he didn’t speak any English! I ended up doing a BG EMD back to Biman Bandar. Not the most productive evening.

6601 on 792 06h00 Chapai Nawabganj - Dhaka “Banalata Express” 6522 on 5 12h15 Dhaka - Rajshahi “Rajshahi Express” 2906 on 35 13h05 Brahambaria - Dhaka “Titas Commuter” 6634 on 757 20h00 Dhaka - Panchgarh “Druitijan Express”

Monday 3rd February 2025 I left the hotel early ish to catch any train to Kamlapur. I’d hoped to buy a ticket for the Mahua Commuter (off Kamlapur at 08:15), but it was so foggy at Biman Bandar visibility was about 50 yards. Not surprisingly, everything was late. A BG GM rolled in at 07:30, the running time to Kamlapur is 25 mins, so any thoughts of visiting the ticket counter went out of the window. This could have meant standing up for 6 hrs all the way to Mymensingh.

The good news was the Mahua Commuter had winning MLW 2314 for power. I bought a ticket off the ticket inspector without a seat allocation and sat in the front coach. No one claimed my seat, the train got busy, but it was actually pleasant. A decent load and doing 60 kmh, what’s not to like? Then the train tried to depart Sreepur, 70 km from Mymensingh. The MLW would rev up but not take power! This went on for an hour before the driver threw in the towel. He’d been on the railway for 50 years, had tried everything to coax it into life. An IC stopped on the adjacent line heading to Mymensingh. Somehow I managed to squeeze on board this thing. It was so full, the suspension bottomed out! It became semi bearable after Gafargaon and I even got a seat.

At Mymensingh, no hotel in town is on any booking sites. I remembered the Hotel Amir International, where I stayed back in 2009. They had a choice of rooms, a midrange one cost 3000 Taka. Once checked in, I went back to the station to try and make sense of the departure boards. I went to see the station master and quizzed him about trains on the Jaria and Mohanganj Branches. He kindly wrote out the timetable for these places.

The good news was that there was 16:30 to Jaria and a return working straight back. Dud 2401 was waiting to work it, so that was that decided!

The move went to plan, but I couldn’t help but notice something smelt like it was very hot. I’d smelt something similar at work once and it was a seized traction motor! Clouds of smoke emitted from underneath the MLW as we arrived at the penultimate station before Mymensingh. We did set off and made it to destination, but I didn’t see the loco the next day and the entire rake of coaches spent the next two days in the sidings, so something was amiss.

2314 on 43 08h15 Dhaka - Mohanganj “Mahua Commuter” 2932 on 799 10h00 Dhaka - Bhuapur “Jamalpur Express” 2401 on 276 16h30 Mymensingh - Jaria Jhanjar 2401 on 275 18h30 Jaria Jhanjar - Mymensingh

Tuesday 4th February 2025 I had it in mind to cover the 06:00 to Jharia. Exiting the Amir International at 05:40 wasn’t straightforward as yet again, the front doors were locked. At the station, the booking office was also locked up, no trains present and the station master no help thanks to the language barrier. Someone even mentioned “Bondo”, it certainly had that feel to it.

There was nothing for it but to sit and wait. Eventually, 2939 arrived with a local train from the Dhaka direction and a 2700 from Jamalpur. I’d expected these to be Alco, not EMD. At least something was running. About 8am, I nipped outside and found a decent place for breakfast: the Taj Mahal Restaurant. The Balaka Commuter (04:45 Dhaka To Jharia Jhanjail) arrived at 09:15 with winning MLW 2316, things were looking up! Another round trip to Jharia then, which surprised the chai stall holder at Jharia no end when I appeared for the second day running! The next debate was whether to risk a hefty minus at Mymensingh onto the Mahua Commuter or bale at Gouripur Jn. After yesterday’s loco fiasco, who knew if the train would run or what would be powering it. I decided to put all the chips on the table and risk Mymensingh. (The Mahua Commuter is RA Gouripur Jn - Mymensingh, but the first stop outside Mymensingh has passing loops….)

Rolling into Mymensingh and the Mahua Commuter was sat ready to go, with another winning MLW - 2313! I’d barely walked the width of the platform and it set off!

Line speeds on the Jharia run had been way better than expected: 60 kmh and load 10, which would explain the hours faster running times compared to those shown in the 2003 working timetable. It wasn’t like bashing Jaipur - Sikar, but it was reasonable enough. The Shamganj Jn - Mohanganj section was slower, more like bashing the Sasan Gir network in India. What had started off as a thoroughly poor day, actually turned out to be excellent. I managed both branches with Alcos, had seats all day, line speeds had been reasonable and the locals very accommodating.

2714 on 262 06h00 Mymensingh to Mohanganj 2906 on 746 02h00 Tarakandi - Dhaka “Jamuna Express” 2913 on 744 06h40 Dewanganj Bazar to Dhaka “Bhramaputra Express” 2316 on 49 04h45 Dhaka - Jaria Jhanjar “Balaka Express” and 50 11h40 return 2933 on 778 08h00 Mohanganj to Dhaka “Hoar Express” 2313 on 43 08h15 Dhaka -Mohanganj “Mahua Commuter” and 44 14h30 return

Wednesday 5th February 2025 I’d originally planned to try and cover the Mymensingh - Banga Bondhu Setu route, then head to Dhaka, but the total lack of Alcos on local trains around Mymensingh put paid to that idea. The alternative plan was another run to Jharia on the Balaka Commuter, then do the train throughout to Dhaka. This would handily get me a seat, assuming it hadn’t sold out.

The predicted 2316 arrived from Dhaka with the inbound working and ran round. Thanks to being held at Shambhuganj rather than doing the crossing at Gouripur Jn as the previous day, we ended up being late into Jharia. A nervous wait ensued in the ticket queue while they ran the loco round. I just got a ticket and made it to my seat and we set off. Things were fine, but the nearer we got to Dhaka, the busier things got, until it became impossibly full.

Extracting myself at Dhaka Biman Bandar, the train departed with passengers festooned on the loco sides, carriage roofs etc. No wonder it had been full inside.

2913 on 744 06h40 Dewanganj Bazar to Dhaka “Bhramaputra Express” 2316 on 49 04h45 Dhaka - Jaria Jhanjar “Balaka Express” and 50 11h40 return 2313 on 43 08h15 Dhaka -Mohanganj “Mahua Commuter” and 44 14h30 return

Thursday 6th February 2025 I actually partook in the complimentary breakfast in the hotel - a first on this trip! I’d got a few trains targeted to cover, all after 8am. Everything was either dud or EMD until the Mahua Commuter arrived with MLW 2403! I’d expected this to be 2313 as per yesterday, so some running was required from my lineside photo spot back to Biman Bandar and straight into the back coach. I rode it to Joydebpur.

As is always the case, I just missed the Alco hauled 107 BB Setu East to Dhaka, then there was a complete dearth of trains after. Eventually, 2909 arrived inbound, arrived Kamlapur just late enough to be useless for much else. Train 99 from Ishardi was again nowhere to be seen, assumed hours late.

Time was getting on. I boarded the 13:30 Chittagong Express, which promptly went nowhere. Time ticked by and my flight was at 18:15…. At 14:30, I found out the delay was being caused by attaching the General Manager’s Saloon to the back of the train. “It will leave at 3pm”. Running time to Biman Bandar was 25 mins, 10 mins walk to the hotel, 15 mins walk to the airport etc. Whoops.

We did depart at 3pm. The crowds at Biman Bandar to get aboard were huge. I walked to the hotel, got my bag and passed Biman Bandar station and the train was still sat there! The roof was a carpet of humanity. I availed myself of the “Diplomatic Gate” at the airport, which saved hours of queuing and got me back on schedule, airport wise! It was Indigo to Calcutta then back via a plethora of planes back to the UK.

2610 on 33 05h00 Akhaura to Dhaka “Titas Commuter” 6506 on 107 06h30 Banga Bondhu Setu East to Dhaka “Tangail Commuter” 2403 on 43 08h15 Dhaka -Mohanganj “Mahua Commuter” 3007 on 08h30 Dhaka Kamlapur to Burimari “Burimari Express” 2909 on 52 05h10 Dwanganj - Dhaka “Dewonganj Express” 2936 on 802 13h45 Dhaka - Chittagong “Chattala Express”

Summary So, an eventful trip with some very tough bits and some enjoyable parts too. I’m glad I went. The people in general were very welcoming, treating my as a guest to their country, rather than someone that must be ripped off at every opportunity. I had free chai, free train tickets (sometimes). Please do bear in mind their curiosity and interest when they encounter foreigners and cut them some slack, it’ll pay dividends. If you can’t handle questions from locals, being stared at or want your trip to run like an expensive Swiss timepiece, then Bangladesh isn’t for you!

Food Unsurprisingly, similar to West Bengal. Breakfast is parathas, omelette etc. I found it difficult to get curries with “gravy”. It tends to be tandoori chicken etc which is a bit dry. In large towns and cities, there’s always a posh restaurant or two that had a larger menu.

Prices 150 Taka = £1. Black sweet chai in stations served in glass cups (scaled with hot water beforehand) is 5TK. Mineral water 30TK. Coffee on trains: 30TK. A meal in a good restaurant 450-600TK. Cheap as chips.

Train Tickets You can buy on board without getting fined, unlike India. The ICs can be booked 10 days in advance from ticket offices. See man at seat 61 for descriptions of seating types. There’s no “Sleeper Class” as such, only the equivalent of Indian 1AC, then AC Chair Cars, chair car and no unreserved on IC trains. My advice would be to do it all by day trains as the country isn’t huge anyway, night trains sell out.

The “mail” or “commuter” trains are second class only. The better ones of these on the BG are sold by BR ticket offices (Rajshahi Commuter etc). Others (Rocket and Mohananda Mail) are sold by privatised agents who’ve usually got some rudimentary ticket selling set up - sometimes it’s just a table on the platform, other places they’ve got their own basic ticket office. The Mahua Commuter and Balaka Express were more organised: still contracted out ticket selling agents, but tickets have a seat and coach indicated. Coaches are labelled up by Bengali Letter, which is interesting.

Hotels Used Dhaka: Nagar Valley Hotel. Near the airport and within walking distance of Biman Bandar station. It failed one of my crucial tests: no hot water, so I cancelled the second stay I should have had there. Dhaka: Holiday Express. Well organised, clean and tidy. Hot water! 900m from Biman Bandar station and actually walkable to the airport if you know the way…. Recommended. Rajbari: Hotel 71. Not on any booking sites. Khulna: Jatra Flagship Khulna City Centre: Absolutely spotless… Rajshahi: Jatra Flagship Rajshahi. A bit older than the Khulna place, but still well run. Mymensingh: Hotel Amir International. Average! Nowhere else in town.