Morocco - Visit Reports
November 2024
Report courtesy of Phil Richards
A quick four day trip to Morocco, my first since 2001. Prime objective (which was achieved) was to cover 4 sections of passenger line all opened up since 2001 plus photographs of rolling stock again introduced since last time.
Flew into and back Stansted to Tangier with Ryanair. Over an hour to get through immigration so missed the bus at 12:30. The AE bus to Tanger Ville station operated by Alsa runs hourly mainly at 30 past the hour from each end. Google Maps has all the details, don't bother with the Alsa site. Journey time is only 30 (not 60) minutes or so depending on traffic. Single fare is MAD40 and cards accepted for payment. If you only fly out of Tanger, the bus stop near the station may not be marked correctly on Google Maps. Turn right out of the station into Ave d'Espagne and it's clearly indicated with a white and blue post. The blue 'Petit Taxi' drivers parked up by the bus stop will probably lure you into their offer of matching the bus fare.
For anyone who hasn't flown out of Morocco before, for all airlines you'll need a printed boarding pass. Ryanair will still need you to check-in online, print it out the boarding pass on A4 and exchange that for another one at the bag drop even if you are just taking carry-on luggage. Limited eating facilities at the airport - coffee stall with just sandwiches, pastries. One airside, one landside.
Moves: Friday 22 November 1208 (double deck 'TGV') train 2041, 16:00 Tanger Ville to Casa Voyageurs. Very impressive run on the high speed line as far as Kénitra. Saturday 23 November 6 car Belgian 'Break' EMU Casa Voyageurs to and back from El Jadida as track needed. E-1465 train 614, 11:50 Marrakech to Fès (from Casa Voyageurs) Sunday 24 November DH-430 train 101, 06:50 Casa Voyageurs to Beni Ansar (from Fès, loco runs round at Taourirt) DH-373 train 507, 20:15 Beni Ansar to Casa Voyageurs (to Fès, loco runs round at Taourirt) Monday 25 November E-1473 train 507 Continuation from Fès to Casa Voyageurs at 02:50 (alighted at Rabat Agdal) E-1414 train 103, 06:40 Casa Voyageurs to Fès (then onto Oudja - joined at Rabat Agdal, alighted at Kénitra) E-1474 train 151, 10:25 Kénitra to Tanger Ville
All sightings of Marrakech - Casablanca - Fès services were Alstom Prima II or M4. The only "old" electric I saw was on Saturday 23 November with Hitachi built E-1255 on train 902, 11:30 Khouribga to Casa Voyageurs.
Trains were generally busy. Tickets all bought online via ONCF. No problem with card payment, though learned later an agency (Spratours) does not charge you the 2. something percent foreign cad handling fee. Went 1st class for the bit of extra comfort which normally is a compartment for 6. I'm sure tickets can be bought on the day and there are self service machines (not used) on the main stations.
Hotels/Overnight Used the Ibis next to Casa Voyageurs and Fès stations. Reasonably average buffet breakfast (from 07:00 in Casablanca on a Saturday morning, 06:30 in Fès on the Sunday, may be earlier during the week). The one in Fès certainly had seen better days. Never given an Ibis a 2* review before! Booked a single sleeper on train 507 from Beni Ansar for the bargain price of MAD499. Bed OK and compartment very roomy as converted from old 'Corail' style seated compartments. No towel but soap, face flannel given in a little vanity kit along with coffee, orange juice and pain au chocolate for breakfast.
eSIM purchased £9 for 3GB bought through easySIM as O2 don't include Morocco in their free roaming tariff. Had no problems with 4G data coverage even out in the fairly barren areas of the country east of Fès.
Overall an enjoyable, inexpensive trip. Food really is cheap with plenty of places near most stations in bigger cities. Beni Ansar station has nothing outside but a short walk with the help of Google Maps will take you to several places if you do the 4 or so hour layover. If staying overnight, nothing in Beni Ansar as far as I could see. Get off at the previous stop Nador Ville where there's plenty of accomodation.
I had a "dry" trip. The craft beer scene is probably zero and very few "pubs" around. Most larger hotels will have a licensed bar. I drew cash out as many places won't take cards. The ATM at the airport (Bank Africa) had a fixed fee of MAD35 and understand that's pretty consistent with the many other ATMs around. What few places took cards look to be more modern cafe etc usually the chains.
